Larry's Comes to Venice Beach

Ah Venice, my old stomping ground. Before I moved to Culver City, I used to live on Ocean Front Walk, and was privy to many interesting restaurants in the area.  Not too much has changed with the boardwalk scene, but the arrival of Larry’s raises the bar with many eclectic menu items.

So who is Larry? Larry Bell is a well-known local artist, a true pioneer of California Minimalism, primarily known for his glass cubist sculptures in the 60s. The Spacecraft's design of the restaurant pays homage to his creative inclinations.

Beyond Larry, the stew of talent at this restaurant is a commendable one. Larry’s team combines Waterloo & City's chef Brendan Collins and Carolos Tomazos, and Hotel Erwin owners Mark and Erwin Sokol, who bring a driving force of culinary talent to Windward Avenue’s newest sibling. 

The food is inventive, the scene is pub-ish, with a bustling half-moon shaped bar that invites convivial conversation.

Many of the menu items borrow from Waterloo, and in general, you can count on Collins’ famed charcuterie—along with pizzas—and other dishes influenced by French, Italian and Californian cuisine.

Asst. General Manager Zach Estomo, who also comes from Waterloo, was a most congenial host, providing a nice sampling of luncheon menu items.

Joe Cook (yes, that’s his real name) was in the kitchen, and his expertise was in full bloom. Thankfully, all the items are under $15, which bodes well for this economy. 

An absolute must is their Green Gazpacho Soup ($10) nicely framed in a white hat of a bowl, with succulent char grilled squid, smoked almonds and green grapes.  I slurped it down in a minute and thanked my lucky stars for such a great beginning.

Pizza lovers will enjoy their Green Chorizo Pizza ($14) a spicy mix topped with egg, chipotle and tomato sauce.  It had a nice kick to it, and the presence of the egg added a flavorful blend of protein as well.  I took half of it home, and it escalated in flavor later. If you like spicy pizza, you’ll love this.

For richer palates, check out their Prime Beef Short Rib Grilled Cheese  au jus ($12), slammed between sweet raisin bread, and topped with arugula and Chantal cheese. I’m a bit of a wimp when it comes to decadent creations like this, but I can think of 15 friends of mine who will gladly devour this sandwich.

My palate was then nicely cleansed with their Organic Baby Butter Lettuce & Vegetable Salad ($9), laced with green goddess dressing and brioche croutons.

All in all, this is a groovy place, with enough foodie items to impress any discerning diner. And with culinary treats like the ones I sampled, Larry’s is a great reminder that chefs are here to grace our planet, leaving culinary dreams upon which we can feast for hours.

Larry's: 24 Windward Ave.; 310-399-2700