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Business & Tech

Waterloo & City: A Pleasant Bit of Merry Ol' London

The recently opened Waterloo & City introduces fine British food in a casual dining environment that is sure to make you fall in love with the flavors of London.

Headed by executive chef Brendan Collins and manager Carlos Tomazos, Waterloo & City calls itself a gastropub, but don't be fooled—the menu is far from dressed-up pub grub, and even the most expected menu choices (of which there are few, but say, the burger) come with the unexpected (onion marmalade and Red Leicester cheese).  Named after the London Underground line where British-born Collins began and ended his adventures as a young chef, Waterloo & City is much more than a quick meal. 

"Our standards are very high," Tomazos said. "We want to bring the quality of fine food and service to a very casual and comfortable setting."

Collins, formerly of Melisse and Anisette, and Tomazos, who comes to us from New York's Per Se and Le Bernardin, met while Collins was executive chef and Tomazos was general manager of The Hall at Palihouse.  Of their decision to join forces, "We both share a similar professional background in terms of standards and restaurants that we worked for in the past, and a true and genuine love of the hospitality industry," Tomazos said. 

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The love shows.  Waterloo & City, which moved into an old diner that had been empty for quite some time, is designed with recycled church pews and loosely scattered tables in spaces peppered with antique flair.  The sprawling patio provides plenty of comfortable wicker chair seating, where you can relax and sip a carefully crafted cocktail and enjoy a selection of dishes from an ever-changing seasonal menu. 

In terms of sustainability, local sourcing, and organic and hormone-free considerations, "We are all about that," Tomazos said.  "We shop from local farmers' markets and use farms that practice all the above.  It is a fact that the taste, flavors, and overall quality of such produce are by far superior, and there is a greater awareness from the guests now."

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The Tuna Tartare ($12) appeared as a compact disk of raw tuna topped with avocado purée that served as a podium for a fried Piquillo Pepper, also stuffed with tuna prior to cooking.  The dish was full of captivating contrasts: warm and chilled, cool and spice, crunch and soft, cooked and raw.  The mild heat and delicate flavors of the colorful dish, paired with a glass of the J Winery Non-vintage Brut Cuvée ($11) was like a rainbow with sunshine. 

The small, gourmet pizzas are ideal for sharing and are also perfect for pairing with selections from the superb, bottle-focused wine list—the illustrious Anthony Dias Blue, a "very dear friend" according to Tomazos, assisted in the building of the wine program.  The Moroccan Spiced Lamb pizza ($14) with Manchego and Ras El Hanout and a blend of 23 Moroccan spices, was like a trip to a far-off exotic land.  Powerful, spiced meatballs dotted the thin crust pie spread with a lightly sweet tomato base and sprinkled with finely chopped green onion and mint.  The highly seasoned, potent meat had the potential to be overwhelming, but the meatballs delivered the Moroccan spice in segments, some bites more concentrated than others. 

We chose to wash this one down with one of the many international beers available at Waterloo: a dark, nutty and bitter Fullers ESB Bitter Ale from Fuller, Smith & Turner in London ($7); the combination was uniquely pleasing. 

A selection of cured meats, terrines, and pates gives the menu another splash of the unique.  The Rabbit and Pistachio Terrine came with soused peaches ($11) in a violet mustard sauce.  Complete with a whole cinnamon stick, the sauce was reminiscent of mulled wine, a taste that reminds me of my brief stint in England like no other.  The rich, earthy terrine spread on house-made toast was like butter, with pistachios adding an extra crunch to round out the texture. 

Our highly personable and competent server filled us in on all six of the Sunday night specials (Shepard's Pie and Organic Salmon among them) and the table was tended to with great care: never were we without a filled water glass, house-baked bread, or fresh dishes and silver between courses.  Several of the entrées are built to share, and the multiple pasta dishes, for which the pasta is made in-house daily, are available in half portions. 

The Black Cod with a Miso Gaze, Almond Mushrooms, Green Garlic, and Spinach ($26) adds a bit of Asian influence to the Brit-based menu.  This Atlantic-caught fish practically dissolves on the palate in its tenderness--the softly sweet miso glaze was balanced by bitter greens and crunchy toasted almonds.  The almond mushrooms alone--an incredible mushroom well known for its medicinal properties that has the fragrance and aftertaste of raw almond--make the dish worth trying.  Vegetarians beware, however: the cod is crusted with a breadcrumb and bacon coating not listed on the menu. 

At Waterloo & City, you must be mindful to leave room for dessert (all $9).  The Sticky Toffee Pudding with Milk Ice Cream and Salted Caramel--a favorite of Tomazos's--was like a hot gingerbread pudding that caters to all the senses with its decadent richness, lovely and simple presentation, and cool and clean ice cream accent.  "We try to keep desserts simple," Tomazos said. 

It was simply heavenly. 

Usually opening at 5 p.m., Waterloo & City will also be open at 11 a.m. July 11 in honor of the World Cup final, with a special menu offering breakfast sandwiches and casual lunch grub (check the website for more details).  Reservations are recommended. 

In the future, behind swinging doors by the restaurant's 30 ft. long copper bar, you can expect to find a charcuterie and retail shop for quick sandwiches, specialty meats and cheeses and wine by the bottle. 

For now, engage in a bit of Culver City's freshest and Great Britain's finest with the good energy and the good food of Waterloo & City

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