Rush Street: Pole Dancing and a Pleased Palate

Rush Street is "a state of mind," as the restaurant's website says.  Whether the altered mental state achieved at this Culver City hot spot stems from the unique libations, the coma-inducing burgers, or the stealth stripper pole depends on personal preference.  

I went in search of an elevated mind-set and a bloated belly, and walked away satisfied on both counts.   

Located in the heart of Culver City on Washington Boulevard, Rush Street takes its name from one of Chicago's most bar-happy thoroughfares.  Co-owner Brian McKeaney, who opened the place July 11, 2008, with partners Ken Kaufman and Tom Patchett, is a native of the Windy City whose family owns several establishments on Rush Street there.  "He wanted to bring a little bit of that Chicago style out here with him," said Matt Meiers, bar manager.  "Hence here we are at Rush Street in Los Angeles." 

The restaurant is situated in a former sign shop, with high ceilings, brick walls and exposed wooden beams.  A front patio connects seamlessly through retractable doors to the dining room, dotted with both low and high tables and lined with wood and leather booths on one side and a 35-foot full bar on the other.  Skylights lend even more airiness to the open interior. 

The menu changes seasonally with a few favorites that hang on year-round. The menu just changed to its summer selection, but I was able to "taste the spring" before the seasonal shift.  The Spring Fling specialty cocktail menu featured Rush's most popular selection: the vodka-based Pear Flower ($12) concoction.   As pleasant as a garden in bloom, the drink's mild sweetness was balanced by grapefruit acidity and a refreshing Bosc pear infusion.

Upstairs, the vibe changed slightly.  Away from the balcony overlooking the dining room, en route to Culver City's only rooftop lounge, red lights led me through a second bar with a series of compact lounges and past a lonely-looking stripper pole.

The pole, Meiers allowed, pays homage to a fixture found in all of the McKeaney  bars back in Chicago. "As we normally say to our customers," 'What pole?' " he told me. " 'Oh, that?  That's just a structural load-supporting pole.' " Except on Wednesdays when it's Ladies Night, and Polistic of Studio City offers free pole-dancing lessons.

Flat-screen televisions peppered the whole place.  Although it's hopping most nights (especially when the Lakers are playing), at 7 p.m. on a Monday there was no wait and plenty of open tables. 

The Tataki Nachos ($13), four wonton chips stacked with Asian slaw and topped with thick slices of seared ahi and avocado, lacked punch.  A creaminess and slight sweetness made my mouth crave acidity.

 The dry-aged beef sliders ($10), our selection off of the Mini Giants menu of five varieties of sliders, were soft little hockey pucks from heaven. Three ample yet miniature patties were topped with melted cheddar cheese on grilled buns with a side of tangy homemade Thousand Island.

A glass of cold Maredsous Brune ($8)--a dark brown, hard-to-find beer made by Benedictine monks in Belgium that our attentive and easygoing server described quite accurately as a cross between a Newcastle and a Guinness—was the perfect accompaniment. Rush Street's large assortment of beer includes rare and reasonably priced 750 ml bottles meant for sharing. 

The king crab ravioli and grilled shrimp ($19) arrived in a pool of Thai green curry, garnished with thin slices of crunchy, raw green papaya, avocado and microgreens.  Two lightly blackened shrimp sat atop large, thin wonton raviolis densely stuffed with shrimp and crab. The coconut-based curry had a mild heat that didn't overpower the seafood.

With just a handful of red, white and sparkling wines by the glass, the wine list is focused on bottle offerings.  An international selection--all new releases-- offers a wide range of choices, but Rush Street's significant up-charge (more than 100% in some cases) is a bit of a buzzkill.  On Tuesdays, Rush Street offers half-price bottles.

The patty of the mesquite turkey burger and fries ($12) was a tad dry--as turkey burgers so often are--but the accompanying chipotle cranberry sour cream, pepper jack cheese and avocado fixed it. Pickled red onion and arugula lent a savory pop.

The burgers are large and worth sharing, especially if you happen to be a lady here for ladies night.

For dessert I tried the lemon ricotta cheesecake with wild berry sauce ($9)--all sweet creamy citrus--as I perused the pop art, all hand-selected by Rush Street partner Tom Patchett, who is also co-founder of the Bergamot Station Art Complex and the owner of Track 16 Gallery, both in Santa Monica. Pieces include  Herb Alpert's Tijuana Brass Band album cover and the Viggo Mortensen original photograph of Gwyneth Paltrow from the movie "A Perfect Murder."

McKeaney and Kaufman are planning more restaurants in Los Angeles.  But for now, Culver City is the only place where you can chill out, eat up and tap into that mellow yet decadent state of mind that is Rush Street.