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Business & Tech

Beacon: Still a Special Place

In my opinion, Beacon is one of the first restaurants to put Culver City on the map for fine dining.

Once upon a time, there were just a few fine restaurants that helped put Culver City on the map. One of those trendsetters was Beacon, that Asian sensation anchoring the Helms Bakery complex.

Since Beacon's arrival, lots of competition has come into town, and fickle foodies--forever on the prowl for the next best thing--have lots of restaurants to consider.

Beacon remains a special place for me, and for good reason. Like a truly beautiful woman, Beacon is a place that doesn't readily call attention to itself. Beacon is like an exotic flower that blooms ever so slightly, and when it does, you notice its wonder, its fragrance, and pure simple elegance.

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Thanks to executive chef Kazuto Matsusaka, whose resume includes places such as Ma Maison, L'Ermitage, Spago, and Chinois on Main, the eloquence of the restaurants's dishes shines through. As one of the pioneers of Asian fusion, he even worked in France with his wife Vicki Fan, who has cooking accolades of her own--in addition to an impressive resume in hospitality management. The two have paired their talents to a stable of innovative offerings that has kept Beacon going strong for more than five years.

The patio scene at Beacon is a good one. You can sit out front or behind the restaurant--and trip the night fantastic. Or you can sit inside and enjoy the cool vibe of this place. If you dislike the crowds of downtown Culver City, this area offers a nice change of pace to the frenzy of Cardiff Avenue.

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If you've never been to Beacon, go for the Black Cod ($18.95). It's an instant winner, marinated in a delicious miso sauce, and paired with sesame green beans.  It rivals that of Roy's, and perhaps might even be a bit better.

Lighter offerings include their Organic Miso Soup ($3.50), and their Kaki Fry ($6.50) featuring crispy oysters, braced in lettuce cups with a Yuzu tartar sauce.

Meaties will enjoy the Miso Braised Shortribs ($22.95). The adjacent veggies were almost enough to convert me into a vegan, especially the squash, which were splashed with a bit of the miso sauce.

But here's my beef with Beacon.  While the entrees are great and the food is fabulous, most of us who dine out on a regular basis like a little starch with our entrees. We don't always eat it, but like a piece of clothing in the closet we don't often wear, it's nice to know it's there--just in case. I hate paying for a side of rice.

Most restaurants suffer from portion overload these days, but I like feeling like I'm getting a decent value for my dining dollar, or that I can take some of my entrée home if I'm so inclined--especially when I'm spending $30 plus for a meal. Otherwise, I might as well stay home and fumble in the kitchen myself.

Beacon's still on a roll in my book, but I just wish they gave us a little bang for the buck.

 

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