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Community Corner

Screaming for Paletas

Unique flavors and tropical decor make a trip to Mateo's a reason to celebrate.

Jonathan Gold is one of my literary heroes. As food critic for the LA Weekly, his powers of description rival a poet's. He can wax as eloquently about a four-star French restaurant as a San Gabriel pho joint and his passion for seeking out the unfamiliar informs not only my own philosophy on how to live in Los Angeles, but my philosophy on how to raise kids here as well.

As a longtime patron of resale shop on Sepulveda, I’d taken my share of opportunities to get takeout from and doughnuts from the shop next door,  but I’d never ventured to the southernmost edge of the Windsor Ballona Shopping Plaza to visit Paletas.  Realizing that this was an oversight of which Mr. Gold would not approve, this week (with both kids in tow), I sought to make amends.

Specializing in Mexican style ice creams, sorbets and popsicles flavored with tropical fruits,  giant sundaes known as “Bionicos” and the healthful juices they call “Vampires” in honor of the deep red color of  beets, Mateo’s is not your average Culver City ice cream parlor.

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I imagine that for some Mexican-Americans, a trip here must be like a visit home. But for me, walking in for the first time was like arriving on vacation. Colorful hand-painted furniture features wood carvings of the namesake paletas, as well as parrots, peaches and papayas. Murals depict brightly colored jungle scenes, fresh produce adorns the counters and a trio of posters extol a multitude of exotic fruits.

Obviously, if you’re adventurous, Mateo’s is a great place to check out some unusual flavors. In addition to fruits such as soursop, mamey and nance, you can find desserts flavored with the likes of eggnog, walnut or “smoked milk.” But if you prefer your ice cream closer to what you’d find at the local Baskin- Robbins, you won’t be disappointed either.

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Despite a world of new flavors to discover, both kids stuck to strawberry their first time out, but what a strawberry it was. Filled with whole and sliced berries, it had a delicate whipped cream taste and a light texture. As for me, I did try several of the more exotic flavors but I was most impressed by the passion fruit and lemon sorbets, both of which were so flavorful they made me long for Gold’s descriptive gifts.

He might have called them zingy, sunshiney or explosive.

You’ll have to find out for yourself.

Mateo’s will be offering a free scoop or popsicle to every kid from 3 to 6 p.m. on April 30 in honor of the Mexican holiday Dia de los Ninos.

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